Namagashi: Delicious Japanese Sweets

Namagashi are a type of Japanese jelly-like sweets that are made into colourful shapes to evoke the changing seasons.

Reminiscences of Summer in Japan: Gion Matsuri

One of Japan's most famous festivals is held each year in July in the Gion district of Kyoto.

Japanese Garden at Horsforth Hall Park

Horsforth hall Park in Leeds is home to a small but interesting Japanese garden.

The Royal Armouries

The Oriental Gallery at the Royal Armouries in Leeds is host to a wealth of fascinating Japanese exhibits.

The Kyoto Garden at Holland Park

London's Holland Park hides a beautifully calm and lush Japanese garden in its midst.

Monday, 29 April 2013

3 Months To Go: Preparing to Use My Japanese Skills in Japan

So another month has gone by and I'm a whole month closer to my trip to Japan so I thought that I would tell you about how I'm brushing up my Japanese skills and getting ready to use them in Japan. But first let me tell you a little bit about my Japanese language journey.

Way back in 2004 I fulfilled a lifelong ambition and travelled to Japan. I had just got married and Japan seemed like the perfect choice for a honeymoon as both me and my new husband had grown up hearing about Japan from teachers or grandparents, watching anime and reading manga.

This is me posing on that first trip just outside the Imperial Palace grounds in Tokyo.

So we set off on a two week trip armed with a copy of Lonely Planet and a phrasebook. We knew no Japanese at all on that first trip and survived on a few phrases that we picked out of the phrasebook. Though the language difference seemed completely overwhelming at first, not least because we couldn't understand any of the Japanese writing that we saw everywhere, we had a fantastic time and lots of wonderful experiences with nothing more than a few simple greetings, pleases and thank you's.

After that first trip I was hooked, Japan had lived up to and far exceeded my expectations and I wanted to learn as much about it as I could. I was completely enchanted by the complex little pictograms that I had seen everywhere and desperate to understand them. So my Japanese journey started, rather unusually with studying kanji. More conventional beginner's Japanese textbooks soon followed when I realised that I needed to understand at least some grammar to make sense of the kanji and kana that I was learning.

After falling entirely in love with Japan I hatched a plan to return and after a year or so of saving we went back for an amazing month, the whole of July 2006. This time I managed to shyly utter a few basic phrases and read, much to my excitement, a few basic kanji.

Here I am enjoying the view from the Sky Garden Observatory in Osaka.
Our next visit to Japan was in December 2007. Since my last trip I'd continued to study at home from various textbooks but my only exposure to spoken Japanese was from films and countless dorama watched online. Once again a lack of practice and shyness prevented me from using much of what I'd learnt.

This is us posing for a self-portrait at Odaiba, Tokyo.

This time however, I've vowed that things will be different. Since that last visit I've spent a semester at university, completed 2 years of evening classes, passed the N5 JLPT exam and taken private lessons for the last year. I have also managed to make friends with several Japanese people living here in Leeds which means I get chance to practice my skills and hear spoken Japanese quite often.

So here I am, 3 months away from my next trip to Japan with plenty of study under my belt and an urge to make it count this time. With that it mind I am working hard at the moment to revise and brush up on what I've learnt as much as I can.

And here is how I'm doing it ...

Weekly Lessons
As I mentioned above I am currently taking private lessons where I spend an hour every week with my teacher working through the chapters of Minna no Nihongo, an excellent textbook written entirely in Japanese script, and practicing the grammar structures and vocabulary. I also spend a few hours each week writing up my notes, jotting down new words and working through the exercises in the textbook.

I have used several Japanese textbooks in the past and Minna no Nihongo is my favourite. I am told by my teacher that the language used is very close to how people actually speak in Japan unlike in some other books and the vocabulary isn't overly related to business as in Japanese For Busy People.

I think it's important to work through each new chapter methodically making sure that new words and grammar are introduced, learnt and practiced. That way they stick in your head and you can use them in future conversations.

Kanji Textbook
Along with my lessons I am also using the Basic Kanji Book to learn more written Japanese in the hope that I will be able to read some basic information from signs and menus etc when I'm in Japan. The Basic Kanji Book is another favourite of mine. Each chapter introduces several new kanji along with reading and writing exercises. Each kanji and its stroke order is shown in a hand-written style making it easy to copy and learn while several compounds introduce useful words.

So far the only sure fire way that I have found to learn kanji is practice, practice, practice and there is no better way than to write them out repeatedly while trying to link them visually to their meaning, a task that I often find quite challenging! Another good way to test your kanji knowledge is by reading real life materials such as simple articles or Japanese children's books if you can get your hands on any.

Flashcards
At the moment I am making a stack of new flashcards every week as I encounter new words and kanji in my studies, I really think it's the best way to increase your vocabulary and commit those new words to memory. Though you can buy pre-made cards I prefer to make my own because writing out the words and kanji is all part of the learning process for me. I carry them with me everywhere and whenever I'm on a bus, waiting for friends or have slow day at the restaurant where I work I get them out and start testing myself, I've even roped in my husband and friends to test me too.

I've always used flashcards for pre-exam revision as it seems to be the most effective way to learn a lot of new words and as far as I see it preparing to use my language skills for real in Japan is like my biggest exam yet!

Conversation Practice
Anyone else studying Japanese will know that you can study from books and memorize long lists of vocabulary all you like but there is nothing like the challenge of actually speaking Japanese to other people. Over the last few years, through my lessons and making friends with Japanese people, I have been able to practice my spoken Japanese quite regularly. I still find it very challenging, sometimes my brain just won't think of the right word or verb conjugation quickly enough, but I've seen my ability come on leaps and bounds since I started doing it. So, before I go to Japan, I'm making sure that I speak as much Japanese as possible either to my Japanese tutor, to Japanese friends, to my (bewildered) husband and sometimes even to myself!

Bilingual Updates
Anyone that follows the Itsumo Japan Facebook page will know that I have been posting a 'Food I Want to Eat in Japan' everyday, partly to indulge my culinary fantasies and partly to promote this blog, but I also decided to write each post both in English and in Japanese. I have a few Japanese followers and friends online so I thought they'd appreciate it and also I thought that it would be a chance to use my Japanese everyday.

I'm not going to pretend that each update has been perfect, I suspect that there have been some glaring errors that have made my teacher shudder but I have enjoyed the challenge of trying to express myself in Japanese. Sometimes it was really hard but I figure that the more I practice stringing sentences together the more successful I'll be in Japan.

Watching Dorama and Films
Using Japanese, of course, isn't all about speaking, you have to listen too and I don't think there's a more fun way to practice that than watching your favourite Japanese dorama and films. It's a really great way to get used to hearing the new words and grammar forms that you've learned being used and it's always very gratifying when you realise that you can understand some of what's being said, however small.

Mostly I watch with subtitles because my Japanese is just not that good and I want to know what's going on but I still feel like it's a really worthwhile (and fun) part of my studies. Recently though, as I prepare for my trip I have started watching a few un-subtitled programmes and, though I couldn't understand everything that was said, I did understand the odd whole sentence here and there and enough to follow the story, and that felt great!

 Creating My Own Phrasebook
The final thing that I'm doing to prepare my Japanese skills for use in Japan is creating my own phrasebook. This may sound a little ambitious but don't worry, I'm not attempting to write a whole book, I'm just collecting together some words, phrases and kanji that I've happened across through my studies that I think will be useful when I'm in Japan.

Although I always take a conventional phrasebook with me as well (usually the excellent Lonely Planet  Japanese Phrasebook) I thought that it would be good to put some of the stuff I've been learning from textbooks and lessons to use. So I'm planning to write out these useful words and phrases and carry them with me in the hope that I get to use them in some real life situations.


So that's my plan for preparing to use my Japanese skills in Japan. What do you think? How have you brushed up your skills before visiting Japan and how did it go? I'd love to hear about what you think works and what wasn't so successful.

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Wednesday, 24 April 2013

World-Cruise: Atmospheric and Beautiful Videos of Everyday Japan

I first discovered these videos on YouTube a few months ago but as my trip to Japan grows ever, tantalisingly closer I'm becoming more obsessed with them.

Made by free-lance filmmaker Yuki Eikawa, known as Egawauemon on YouTube and Twitter, the World-Cruise videos are filmed in various locations all around the world including Japan. Many are shot from various vantage points; street corners, quiet alleyways or busy crossings where the everyday is recorded as it passes by the camera. Shoppers bustle past in Akihabara, a postman delivers mail along the backstreets of Gion, stallholders set up early in the morning on Ueno's Ameyoko and workers tout for business for nearby bars on Osaka's Dotonbori. Others are filmed as Eikawa walks along the streets and back alleys himself where in Tokyo he records a wedding procession at Meiji Jingu, fishermen at Tsukiji Market and and the bright neon of Kabukicho at night. A cruise around Osaka takes us along a quiet early morning Dotonbori populated by commuters and deliverymen, through old-school shopping streets and modern shopping malls and along the famous nearby canal before returning to Dotonbori after dark to see it thronged with revellers. This is another wonderful feature of these videos, each location is filmed throughout the day allowing you to observe how they change from morning to night.

The quality of the videos is out-standing with crystal clear images and bright colours. You almost feel like you're there amongst the passersby exploring the locations for yourself. But it's not all about the beautiful visuals of these films, the soundtrack of everyday Japan is also recorded. The cacophony of sounds familiar to anyone who has spent time in Japan from the echoing call of a crow to the distinctive blip of a pedestrian crossing, the irrashimase of a trader selling yakisoba and okonomiyakipachinko parlour jingles, the persistant buzz of summer cicada and trains rattling past overhead all add to the extremely atmospheric feel of these films. To say that they make me feel nostalgic would be an understatement!

There are many documentaries and TV programmes out there about Japan offering insight into all aspects of life and culture (my article 'Documentaries & Programmes About Japan' lists many of them) but if you want a little slice of the everyday then please check out Yuki Eikawa's videos. Whether you're planning your first trip to Japan or you're a regular visitor you're sure to enjoy them. I can't explain to you how much I enjoy watching them and immersing myself back into the sights and sounds of Japan just for a little while. 

This 'cruise' around Tokyo is one of my favourites ...



For more videos visit the World-Cruise YouTube channel, the World-Cruise website or the Itsumo Japan YouTube channel where I've collected together some of my favourite World-Cruise Japan videos. Enjoy!

Friday, 12 April 2013

Hosoda Mamoru: Beautiful and Enchanting Anime

Hosoda Mamoru has directed a handful of animated films including two belonging to the Digimon franchise and one of the One Piece series but it is for his three most recent films that he best known, at least here in the West.

The Girl Who Leapt Through Time/時をかける少女 (2006)Summer Wars/サマーウォーズ (2009) and Wolf Children/おおかみこども雨と雪 (2012) are three enchanting and touching stories.
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The Girl Who Leapt Through Time tells the story of Makoto, a teenage schoolgirl who discovers that she can leap backwards through time and change events. As she battles with her grades and other high school concerns she also struggles to understand her new found powers and the best way to use them.


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In Summer Wars Kenji and Natsuki battle online for the safety of the world against the backdrop of Natsuki's extended family and their problems and secrets, the story is at heart one of family values and tradition.


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Wolf Children follows Hana as she struggles to decide how best to raise her two young children alone after the death of their father, an issue made all the more complex by the fact that he was a wolfman and his children have inherited their father's wild nature.


In each of Hosoda's films the magical and fantastical is blended with the everyday and stories of real life emotion and social issues. They are touching and enchanting without being too sacharine-sweet. The animation of all three films is breathtakingly beautiful, at times strikingly realistic at other times simple and cute. Hosoda's films have been compared to those Ghibli director Miyazaki Hayao and fans of Japan's most famous animated exports will enjoy these films too. Personally I loved these films and felt that they showed just what the medium of anime is capable of when it comes to storytelling.

Thursday, 28 March 2013

4 Months To Go: Why Do Guide Books Ignore Yokohama?

So, for any of you that aren't already aware, I'm going to Japan again! In July! That's quite soon! Roughly four months to be exact and I am excited to say the least. Recently I've been doing lots of research into interesting places to visit and things to do when I'm in Japan and one of the places I've looked at is Yokohama. Since I've stayed in Tokyo several times before I thought Yokohama would be a good alternative. It's close enough to the big city so that I can visit whenever I want but it's a new place that I've never been to before. The best of both worlds.

But I discovered, while thumbing through my old guidebooks and investing in a couple of new ones, that Yokohama, the capital of Kanagawa prefecture, isn't given much attention. I couldn't find any books written about Yokohama and most other guidebooks only dedicate a page or two to the city. So does this mean that Japan's second most populated city doesn't have much to offer the visitor? Well, no, if my research is anything to go by that simply isn't true.

After doing a little searching online I discovered that Yokohama is not only home to Japan's biggest Chinatown but also many museums and galleries, modern shopping malls and beautiful waterfront parks.

So, for anyone else thinking about visiting Yokohama and wondering what the city has to offer, here's my round up of the best places online to find out more:


Japan: The Official Guide
First up JNTO, the Japan National Tourism Organisation, has lots of information and downloadable pamphlets about lots of places in Japan including Yokohama and Kanagawa on its website.
You can find the JNTO website here and PDFs about Yokohama and Kanagawa to download here.



Kanagawa Now Japan
The Kanagawa Prefectural Tourist Association has a good website packed full of information about the area including city guides, information about events and more downloadable pamphlets.
You can find the Kanagawa Now Japan website here and brochures about Kanagawa to download here.




Yokohama Visitors' Guide
This website run by one of Yokohama's tourist organisations has lots of information for anyone planning a trip to the city. Along with listings for attractions, events and accommodation it also has travel tips and itinerary suggestions. You can view he website here and you can also read editions of the site's 'Unique Side of Yokohama' feature, a cute guide to some 'off the beaten track' places in Yokohama here.


Japan Tourist
Japan Tourist is a great website filled with articles about all kinds of places in Japan from museums and tourist attractions to bars and restaurants written by a variety of contributors (including me ^_^ ). There are lots of articles about all the great attractions that Yokohama has to offer.
You can read about Yokohama on the website here and there is a special article all about the city here.



Yokohama Seasider
Yokohama Seasider is an online magazine all about life in Yokohama and is filled with recommendations for bars, restaurants, shopping and things to do. It also has lots of articles about cultural events and profiles of people who live in the city. You can visit the website here.





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Wednesday, 20 March 2013

Good Books About Japan: Geisha & Kimono

Beautiful geisha and colourful kimono are two of the most striking and popular images of Japan. There are plenty of books dedicated to these fascinating and complex subjects from the autobiographies of ex-geisha and colourful photobooks to detailed analyses of the history and culture of Japan's national dress.



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Here is my list of recommendations and personal favourites ...


The first book that I ever bought about geisha is filled with photographs and information about the history of geisha, their costume and make-up and their life in modern day Japan.
This is the best book about geisha that I have read. Dalby is very knowledgeable and combines her own personal experiences of living and working in the Pontocho hanamachi with a lot of facts about geisha culture and history. Read more about Liza Dalby here.
This book suffers slighty in comparison to Liza Dalby's book on the same topic but is still an interesting and informative read. It covers geisha history from its origins to modern day.
The interesting autobiography of a geisha who worked in the prestigious Gion Kobu hanamachi.




Autobiography of a Geisha by Sayo Masuda
An autobiography describing the difficult life that Masuda lived both as a geisha and in rural wartime Japan.


Madame Sadayakko: The Geisha Who Seduced the West by Lesley Downer
The fascinating life of geisha Sadoyakko who not only became famous in Japan but also thrilled the West with her dancing and acting, was painted by Picasso and inspired Puccini's Madame Butterfly.

Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Liza Dalby
A fascinating and well-written book by the author of Geisha that chronicles the history of kimono as well as how it is worn and its place in modern Japan.



The Book of Kimono by Norio Yamanaka
A very informative and useful book that covers kimono and kimono accessories as well as how to wear them and and look after them with lots of clear pictures and illustrations.

Making Kimono and Japanese Clothes by Jenni Dobson
This book contains instructions not only for making kimono but also for hantenjimbei and mompe as well as decorative techniques and brief historical information.


Kimono and the Colors of Japan by Katsumi Yumioka
A book filled with pictures of antique kimono from the author's collection illustrating the traditional colours of Japan. The text is in both English and Japanese.
This book is part of a 5 book series which also includes the following books:

Kimono and the Summer Color of Japan

Kimono Obi and the Colors of Japan

Kimono and the Motifs of Japan

Child Kimono and the Seasonal Motifs of Japan


Though this book about wearing stylish yukata by Sasajima Toshimi is in Japanese it is filled with color pictures and diagrams showing how to put on the summer kimono and tie obi as well as hairstyle ideas making it easy to follow even if you don't read Japanese.
Kimono Hime is a Japanese language 'mook' or magazine book published in installations. Each edition focuses on a different aspect of dressing up in kimono with particular focus on antique garments. If you don't read Japanese the magazines are worth buying for the gorgeous pictures alone.



Tried & Tested by Itsumo Japan!

Entries that bear this stamp are books that are on the Itsumo Japan bookshelf and are especially recommended.




Good Books About Japan: Food & Drink

Japanese food is popular throughout the world and one of the country's best exports. There are lots of books filled with recipes and information as well as those about the history of Japan's varied  cuisine.


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Here is my list of recommendations and personal favourites ...

Japanese Cooking by Emi Kazuko
This fantastic book is like an encyclopedia of Japanese food, recipes and cooking techniques. The first half of the book is dedicated to the tools, ingredients and techniques of Japanese cooking with lots of explanations and photos. The rest of the book is filled with traditional recipes from sushi and noodles to desserts and sweets.

The Japanese Kitchen by Kimiko Barber
Another really useful cookbook with recipes organised by ingredient. Each section also includes details of the ingredient's uses, tips for storage and notes on its appearance and taste. Japanese names, in romaji and Japanese script, are used throughout the book as are lots of colour photos.

Step by Step Sushi by Katsuji Yamamoto & Roger W Hicks
A good book with lots of photos demonstrating various recipes and techniques for making sushi from how to prepare the rice to cutting the fish.

Modern Japanese Cuisine by Katarzyna J. Cwiertka
An interesting book that charts the history of Japanese food from the effects of imperialism and military cooking to the introduction of modern global cuisines.




Tried & Tested by Itsumo Japan!

Entries that bear this stamp are books that are on the Itsumo Japan bookshelf and are especially recommended.




Good Books About Japan: Culture

Japanese culture, from traditional tea ceremony, ikebana and martial arts to modern manga, anime and futuristic technology, is popular throughout the world and there are many fun, interesting and academic texts written on this varied subject.




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Here is my list of recommendations and personal favourites ...


The Cambridge Companion to Modern Japanese Culture (Cambridge)
A fascinating book that covers topics such as food, visual arts and technology and their influence on modern Japan.


The World's of Japanese Popular Culture (Cambridge)
A collection of interesting essays on a range of topics relating to modern Japanese society from sumo and super heroes to karaoke and women's magazines.


An Introduction to Japanese Society (Cambridge)
An interesting book covering aspects of Japanese society including the varieties of work, gender and the family system and minority groups and challenges the belief that Japan is a uniform culture.


100 Tough Questions for Japan (Kodansha Bilingual Books)
This book contains 100 questions and answers, printed in both English and Japanese, that attempt to explain various unusual aspects of Japanese culture from customs and behaviour to pastimes and the school system. Part of a series of bilingual books about Japan.

Kokoro: Hints and Echoes of Japanese Inner Life by Lafacdio Hearn
This classic book contains 15 essays written by the Greek expat, who moved to Japan in 1890, written as an attempt to understand the inner spirit of his adopted countrymen. Some are lengthy discussions while others are charming observations of life in Japan.

Governing Japan: Divided Politics in a Resurgent Economy by J.A.A. Stockwin
A comprehensive introduction to the complex world of Japanese politics and government.

A Geek in Japan: Momentos by Héctor Garcia
Japan blogger Héctor Garcia's book is filled with photographs and comments on Japan as seen through the eyes of a Spanish expat. His beautiful pictures capture Japan's modern cities, living traditions and rich culture.


A Geek in Japan: Discovering the Land of Manga, Anime, Zen and the Tea Ceremony by Héctor Garcia
Another book by Japan blogger Héctor Garcia that acts as a guide to Japan's complex culture. Packed with photos, facts and articles this book isn't as charming as Momentos but offers a good introduction to Japan.


The Japanese House: Material Culture in the Modern Home by Inge Daniels
Based on Dr Inge Daniels anthropological research in Japan this interesting book describes contemporary domestic life in Japan and the cultural aspects that shape the modern living space.

Idle Idol: The Japanese Mascot by Edward & John Harrison
This fun book filled with pictures from all over Japan shows the use of mascots by all kinds of businesses and companies. Hello Kitty and Colonel Sanders are included alongside traditional characters like tanukimaneki neko and kappa.


Simple Guides: Shinto by Ian Reader

An interesting introduction into Japan's indigenous religion, its shrines, rituals and traditions. A chapter on matsuri and their origins in Shinto is also included.
Tabloid Tokyo: 101 Tales of Sex, Crime and the Bizarre from Japan's Wild Weeklies by Mark Shcreiber
A collection of amusing stories translated from Japan's weekly gossip-filled tabloid magazines.One short chapter of this collection of travel writings titled 'Mad in Japan' describes the authors visit to Tokyo in September 2001. I'm afraid he is rather scathing about what he sees and experiences but it makes an interesting read.


Tried & Tested by Itsumo Japan!

Entries that bear this stamp are books that are on the Itsumo Japan bookshelf and are especially recommended.